Today, we visit Črno Jezero, or ‘The Black Lake,’ which is the lowest-lying of the Triglav Lakes, at 1,319 m (4,327 ft) above sea level. It lies below the Triglav Lakes Valley proper. It is possible to visit this lake from the Bohinj valley and return as a one-day excursion. But be prepared for a challenge!
Bohinj – Črno Jezero via Komarča
This is a fantastic walk with varied scenery and some exiting climbing, but it is not for the faint-hearted, or those unaccustomed to hiking. Neither would I recommend this walk during wet weather, as some of the more exposed rocky sections of the path up to the lake become dangerously slippy when wet. The use of a helmet is recommended because of the possibility of rockfalls, though no-one we saw en route was wearing one.
From the Koča pri Savici, the route is signposted ‘Črno Jezero, 1hr 45 min;’ cross the ridge then follow the path which rises (very steeply) through the forest to climb the contours of the Komarča cliff. The path has sections of exposed rock which are secured with cables and stanchions to make the climbing safe and relatively easy. If you suffer from vertigo, think carefully before attempting this climb. I found it fine in ascent, even though I don’t like exposed heights, I just focused on the path ahead. But I wouldn’t choose this route for descent in case vertigo got the better of me.
After passing the steep rock sections you will re-enter the forest just above the lake. It is surrounded by evergreen forest and steep rock scenery. It is a delightfully peaceful lake, untouched by mass tourism. A great spot for a picnic, and a great place to rest tired feet.
Crno Jezero – Dom na Komni
The next section of the walk is technically much easier, though it can still be tiring after the steep ascent to the lake. Follow the signs for Komna from the west end of the lake. Do not fall into the same trap as we did: immediately after the first sign for Komna (to the left) another way-marked route will point right. This is not the route to Komna but in fact continues up to the Koča pri Triglavskih Jezerih. We only realised this after walking for one hour in the wrong direction, and having to retrace our steps! You will know you are on the correct route to Komna when you turn left and see a tree marked ‘Komna.’ Continue on this path to rise high above the lake and wind through a delightful forest path above the head of the Bohinj valley. Eventually the path will climb towards Dom na Komni: a large mountain lodge with good food and plenty of room for tired hikers (though if you plan to stay, you should always book ahead). Here you can rest and enjoy fantastic panoramas over the lower Bohinj mountains.
Dom na Komni – Koca Pri Savici
This is the most arduous part of the walk, especially to already tired legs. The good thing is that it is neither exposed nor technically difficult. The path zig-zags down the steep head of the valley. It zig-zags over fifty times in total, and the 900m descent takes around 1.5-2 hours. There are occasional breaks in the trees where you can take in breathtaking views of Lake Bohinj, and look across to Komarča and wonder how on earth you managed to climb up there.
Refresh yourself with water from the Savica waterfall at the base of the path, then visit the Koca Pri Savici for a well-earned slice of jabolčni zavitek (apple strudel) and a cup of planinski čaj (herbal tea made from local herbs and flowers).
The round trip takes around 6 hours, but allow up to 8 hours if you plan to stop, eat and rest at Dom na Komni. Visit my Instagram page for more images from this excursion, and stay tuned for more Postcards from Slovenia.