Walking to Holy Island, the Pilgrim’s Way

Situated on the Northumberland coast close to Bamburgh and Berwick-upon-Tweed, Holy Island, or Lindisfarne, is a place you should go out of your way to visit, if you are ever in the area. It was here that St Cuthbert (634-687 A.D.) presided over the monastery that would go on to produce the breathtakingly beautiful Lindisfarne Gospels. It was from here that Cuthbert’s followers rescued his mortal remains from the threat of Viking invasion, carrying his coffin through the wilderness for years before reaching his final resting place at Durham, where a great cathedral would be raised in his honour.

This tidal island is reachable by a road causeway for around 7-9 hours per day, depending upon the tide times. But for those seeking a truly memorable way to reach the island, there is another option: walking The Pilgrim’s Way.

The Pilgrim’s Way to Holy Island

Before the road was built, in 1954, heading across the sands with the receding tide was the only option for visitors to the island. A line of poles in the sand, which begin near the refuge box of the road causeway (on the right-hand side if you are heading towards the island) lead to Chare Ends, on the west shore of the island. If you want to try out this unique route, first read the following important safety information:

• It is only safe to cross with the receding tide. Aim to start your walk at least two hours before Low Tide.
• The Pilgrim’s Way is 3 miles long and takes around 1.5 hours to complete.
• The safe crossing times for the road causeway do not apply to this route. Consult these first, then work out Low Tide by calculating the mid-point of the safe crossing times for that day.
• To reach the start point of the walk, you will either have to walk by the side of the road causeway (1.5-2 hours from the car park on the island) or get someone to drop you off there.
• It is best to walk barefoot once the sand becomes wet underfoot. At times you may find yourself knee-deep in tidal mud! But as long as you cross at the appropriate time, and always with the receding tide, you should be perfectly safe.

Our experience of walking The Pilgrim’s Way

As we had a large safe crossing window on the road causeway (9.5 hours), we drove to Holy Island first, and left our car in the car park. We then headed over the sand dunes towards the start of the Pilgrim’s Way. It was quite tough going over the dunes, however, so we soon opted to walk by the roadside. There is space on the grass at the side of the road, so you don’t have to run the gauntlet of the many cars, vans and lorries making the crossing! It took around 1.5 hours to reach the start point; it would have been quicker without the excursion into the dunes. We soon reached the first refuge box, for those unfortunate enough to get cut off by the tide: it looked rather rickety!

It was easy going underfoot across the flat and hard-packed sands at the start of the route. We didn’t go barefoot until we reached the second refuge box, which some members of our walking party (not me!) were brave enough to climb. We soon concluded it would be better not to get stranded there in the first place.

Mesmerising memories and siren songs

Walking barefoot across the squelching sands and tidal mud was a wonderful experience. All the cares of the world soon melted away, even the cold of the rather harsh winds didn’t seem to penetrate. In the distance, the Farne Islands and Bamburgh Castle appeared mirrored, mirage-like in the sea to the south. And beyond the howl of the wind, another haunting sound could be heard, like a deep, low-pitched wailing chant. Far off on a sandbank, a colony of seals had beached, and were singing to the tide. This was no accident: according to the locals, they do this regularly. It is hard to make out from the recording, but if you listen to this short film, you should hear the seal song in the final moments:

Concluding our walk

On the last leg of the walk, we were able to see curlews and other seabirds, and find their tracks in the sand. The mud was never more than ankle-deep, and, combined with a few sections over gently scratching seashell fragments, had the invigorating effects of the best pedicure imaginable! We had come prepared with towels to dry our feet off at the Island end of the Pilgrim’s Way. Finally, I realised I was cold. But also very happy. I recommend this walk to anyone who has the capacity, inclination and opportunity to attempt it!